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CRETE MENIES A Saint George's day pilgrimage....

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We travelled from our Hotel (The Mistral) for an hour on a dirt track, out along the Menies peninsular on the island of Crete. We had been invited by Nektarios a shepherd to join the local celebration for St. George's day. The roughly made car park was already begining to fill up with pick-up trucks and cars. People were gathered from the local town - men dressed in the traditional black. The field in which the chapel stood was filled with wild flowers and in particular red poppies. The chapel itself was a tiny building with a low door way. We could hear the chanting from outside - and as we entered the tiny chapel the smell of incense hit us. It was a bit of a squeeze to fit us in but the people welcomed us, gave us candles etc. Two men were assisting the Priest, their beautiful voices reading the ancient Greek texts and prayers filled the chapel. ( We tried to supress giggles when they kept loosing their places and the priest had to keep coming and showing them the page etc.) Greek Orthodox liturgy is wonderfully symbolic, sensory, and visual. The Priest with his white hair and beard, dressed in his cream robes, incense, candles, icons, coming and going. It was wonderful to be part of it. After a while the whole of the congregation moved outside under the tree where the priest continued the liturgy. An icon of St.George was placed by the door and the bell hanging from the tree was rung. Bread was blessed and shared among those outside - sweet tasting bread. Wine and olive oil were placed with the bread on the tables and blessed too. The ordinary, staple foods of life blessed and made holy somehow. the men who were on the sidelines - sat around the garden tables which were being prepared for lunch, crossed themselves along with everyone else nearer the chapel. They almost instinctively knew which were the solemn moments and hushed their conversation to join the liturgy. The service continued for a little longer while we stood in the shade of the tree. The sun came out after quite a wet and chilly couple of days. The poppies seemed to shine as we soaked up the atmosphere. Tables were placed near us and lots of different foodstuffs were brought out. It is tradition after a service like this one to share small tokens of food - perhaps like the feeding of the five thousand. We were encouraged to join the queue to receive bread, cheese, lamb, sardines and wine (very strong local wine!) We took are places at the tables and shared together. Then, even though it was only 11.30 am, lunch arrived. Pilaf rice (rice cooked in the juices of the meat) and huge plates of lamb. I'm not sure if it was the atmosphere and the sunshine but that meal was one of the best I'd had in Crete! Wine was served from coke bottles with the tops cut off but went down very easily! We ate and drank until we couldn't eat anymore (and there was still massive amounts left!). After lunch (and too much wine perhaps!) the barriers of language seems to fall as we chatted with the Greek families. I spoke to the Priest (who was aware of 'female' priests and John Calvin!) and had a long conversation with one of the men who had assisted the priest. He had been a barber for 30 years working for the US Navy at Souda Bay! Some of us shared in having a puff or two of the strawberry flavour 'hookah pipe'. We had brought with us a gift for Nektarios - What do you take a shepherd as a gift? A chain saw to help him with the pruning of olive trees! He is a very proud man and art first refused to accept our gift but English persistance paid off and it was gratefully received! It was probably the most splendid afternoon I'd spent that holiday in Crete! We said our farewells and thankyous and left. From here we hopped into the open back of the pick-up and travelled further along the dirt track out towards the coast. Crete is spectacular - and the view down to the bay was no exception. Gorgeous sands, clear blue sea - hidden away in a cove! Wow! Here we swam (not quite skinny dipping!) or sat on the beach! a perfect way to end a perfect day! Although the whole experience wasn't quite over yet! At the end of our holiday we arrived back to the Mistral to hear Nektarios was coming to visit! He arrived and brough with him a bucket filled with honey from the bees he kept!! After tasting jars were filled by Nektarios and Adonis (below). Eveytime I have honey I will think of that wonderful day and the generosity of Nektarios, and the people of Crete! Thankyou to everyone at the Mistral for such a great day and fantastic holiday! See you next year! From http://lostcoins.blogspot.com/



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